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Help or hype?

Everywhere you look these days, cosmetics companies are pushing their versions of mineral makeup, said to be all-natural and good for the skin. From a $6.99 jar of Jane Be Pure Mineral Crushed Powder at Walgreens to luxury cosmetics brands charging $60-plus for a foundation, the mineral craze is in full swing. While loose powders, made primarily from crushed rocks, are the most common form of mineral makeup, the "mineral" catchphrase has now been applied to pressed powders, lipsticks, eyeliners, mascara and more.

Since there are no clear guidelines or regulations when it comes to labeling cosmetics as mineral makeup, they're not all created equal and they may not always be all-natural. Consumers are advised to exercise caution, read labels and research products before they buy, says Tucson dermatologist Jody Comstock of Skin Spectrum. Comstock recommends looking for a mineral makeup that's free of talc, preservatives, dyes and fragrances, all of which can be irritating to the skin and are common ingredients in many traditional cosmetics.

"The fewer chemicals that are in products, the better," Comstock said. A good mineral foundation can be especially beneficial for those with sensitive skin or skin conditions like acne or rosacea, Comstock said.

To get an idea of just how natural a cosmetic product is, or isn't, consumers can visit the Environmental Working Group's Skin Deep Cosmetics Safety Database at www.cos meticsdatabase.com. There, anyone can type in a product name and get detailed information about its ingredients and how safe or natural it really is. When shopping for mineral makeup, it's also important to look for products that contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide for natural sun protection, Comstock said, and to remember that more expensive brands are not necessarily better.

In addition to mineral makeup's potential skin benefits, it's touted as offering makeup wearers lighter, more natural looking coverage than heavy-liquid foundations that can leave those unsightly lines when applied incorrectly. With mineral powders, it's hard to get the application wrong, Comstock said.

Not everyone is jumping on the mineral bandwagon, however. Paula Begoun, aka the Cosmetics Cop, a Seattle-based author and cosmetics-industry expert, says the claims made by mineral makeup manufacturers about the makeup's skin-health benefits are exaggerated and unfounded, amounting mostly to hype.

In a 2007 report "Mineral Makeup," Begoun advises against anyone using mineral makeup - or any makeup - as skin care and challenges claims that mineral makeup is actually all-natural. "Everybody and their brother has come out with mineral-based makeup and it's a bogus term. What does that mean? It's a very loose term," Begoun said in a telephone interview. "It's ridiculous; we just can't get enough of the hype." Begoun criticized loose- powder mineral makeup as being too messy and no better or worse than a "nonmineral" powder.

Still, people such as Comstock swear by mineral makeup, saying she's allergic to anything else. "These products are great for sensitive skin, they include a sun block, and they give you great coverage that isn't heavy," she said. In the end, it might be up to trial and error and personal preference to determine which, if any, mineral makeup is right for you.